VISITS TO THE WEST

 

BY

 

MEHER BABA

 

1ST VISIT : 1931 - Part A

 

29th August 1931 to 1st November 1931

 

 

1931 : Meher Baba in England. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Meher Baba in England. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

 

 

FIRST VISIT TO THE WEST -  1931

 

 

Due to the large volume of information covering the almost 5 months tour, this visit to the West is covered in 2 parts on this website.

 

A brief synopsis of the trip to the West.

 

The maps on this web page are presented in the order of Meher Baba's travels from one location to another, starting from Bombay , India on the 29th August, on the ship SS Rajputana sailing to Aden on the Arabian Peninsula, through the Red Sea, and navigating the Suez Canal to Port Said, Egypt

 

From Egypt the ship journeyed to the Strait of Messina, Italy, across to the Strait of Bonifacio which separates Sardinia and Corsica, then onto Marseilles, France.

 

Once Meher Baba landed in Marseilles, France, he took the train to Paris, then to Boulogne on the English Channel coast, where he took a ferry to Folkestone, England, and then a train to London. After a short stay he travelled by car to East Challacombe in Devon, in the West of England.

 

After a stay, he motored back to London and later took the train to Dover, and from there ferried across the English Channel to Calais, France. From Calais he undertook a rail journey on the Simplon Orient Express train travelling to Paris, Dijon, Lausanne, Switzerland, through the Simplon Tunnel to Milan, Italy, Venice and Trieste, crossing into Yugoslavia to Bulgaria and finally to Istanbul, Turkey.

 

He returned by the Simplon Orient Express train to Milan, where he stayed for a while, motoring to various religious places and then travelled to Como Lake area. After returning to Milan he then motored to Genoa where he boarded the the SS Roma ship to Naples then sailed to Gibraltar, and the Azores Islands finally reaching New York City, U.S.A., the latter after Genoa is covered in Part B.

 

He stayed in the U.S.A. for about a month. During this time he motored to Harmon-on-Hudson (Croton), proceeded to Bostonthen to Hancock, N.H., returning to Boston the same day, and on the following day taking the ship SS George Washington back to New York

 

He again motored to Harmon for another 10 days, before returning to New York, then taking the ship SS Bremen to Cherbourg, France, then the train to Paris, and Marseilles. He departed by ship on the SS Narkunda to Bombay, India, traversing the same way he first left India almost 5 months earlier.

 

The total distance covered was about 29,000 miles / 46,700 kms in 5 months :

almost 6,000 miles per month.

 

Click on the maps to enlarge them, and on the underlined names to visit their respective web pages on this website and to get a full account.

 

Visit the 'Timeline' page for details of the locations, mode of transport taken and the various people Meher Baba met on this first visit to the West.

Click on the link : "1931 Timeline"

 

 

29th Aug. 1931. Meher Baba & Agha Ali arriving at Balland Pier, Bombay, India, prior to boarding the ship SS Rajputana. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
29th Aug. 1931. Meher Baba & Agha Ali arriving at Balland Pier, Bombay, India, prior to boarding the ship SS Rajputana. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

 PART  A

 

Meher Baba  (37) departed Bombay, on the first of 13 visits to the West over almost 3 decades, on the 29th August, arriving at the Ballard Pier dock early at 7 am where he was required to pass a medical examination before boarding the ship SS Rajputana which was captained by a Captain MortonBaba was listed as M. S. Irani.

 

Accompanying him were Chanji ( Framroze Dadchanj)(38),

Rustom K. Irani (32) and Agha Ali (16), all of whom had been a students at Baba's ashram-school at Meherabad, India.

 

They had boarded the ship at 11:00 am. When the ship departed at 1:00 pm.although a large crowd was there to see others off, there were no large local farewells specifically for Baba, which was what had Baba instructed.

 

 

Below : The 2 main pages of Meher Baba's 1931 Persian passport used on his 1st visit to the West.

May 1931 - Quetta, Br. India. Meher Baba photo taken and later used (trimmed) on his new Persian passport, issued in Duzdeb, Persia, in the prior month for leaving on his first visit to the West. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
May 1931 - Quetta, Br. India. Meher Baba photo taken and later used (trimmed) on his new Persian passport, issued in Duzdeb, Persia, in the prior month for leaving on his first visit to the West. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

   F. 'CHANJI' DADACHANJI                    RUSTOM K. IRANI                         AGHA ALI

 

 

1930s BALLARD PIER, BOMBAY

1930s. Ballard Pier, Bombay. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s. Ballard Pier, Bombay. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
The map shows all the various routes taken by Meher Baba on his 1st visit to the West. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
The map shows all the various routes taken by Meher Baba on his 1st visit to the West. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
S.S. RAJPUTANA
S.S. RAJPUTANA

 

 

Departed Bombay : 29th August 1931, 1 pm

 

29th August 1931 : SS Rajputana leaving Bombay, India. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
29th August 1931 : SS Rajputana leaving Bombay, India. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

continued... 

 

There was another passenger on board who was very famous Mahatma Gandhi, who was travelling to London representing the Indians at the Round Table Conference on the possible independence from British rule in India. The below image shows Captain Morton instructing Gandhi on the use of the sextant navigational instrument used during the voyage.

 

During the voyage, Baba  was taking a walk on the deck at 5:00 P.M when an evacuation drill took place; all passengers (including Baba) had to don life jackets for ten minutes.

 

When Chanji and Rustom became sea sick Baba himself tended to them throughout their illness.

 

 

1931 : SS Rajputana's Captain Morton showing Mahatam Gandhi a navigational instrument on the same voyage to Europe. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1931 : SS Rajputana's Captain Morton showing Mahatam Gandhi a navigational instrument on the same voyage to Europe. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s : Mahatma Mohandas K. Gandhi. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s : Mahatma Mohandas K. Gandhi. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Early 1930s : Round Table Conference, London, England. Image coloured by A. Zois.
Early 1930s : Round Table Conference, London, England. Image coloured by A. Zois.

 

 

ADEN (1930s)

 

Aden early 1900s. Watercolour painting.
Aden early 1900s. Watercolour painting.

 

 continued... 

 

Arrived in Aden 3rd September - 4 am. Departed 9 am.

 

Bombay to Aden between 3-3,500 miles / 5-5,900 kms. It took 4.5 days to complete.

 

The first port-of-call was Aden, a British Territory at that time, at one end of the Arabian land. Arriving at 4am, the ship departed 5 hours later at 9amMeher Baba did not leave the ship.

 

Meher Baba saw Mahatma Gandhi the next day, 4th September, but kept at a distance. Baba said : "If Gandhi comes to meet me, it would be very good for him and good for all concerned."

 

Baba explained his views about the Round Table Conference in London and possible civil war in India in the future, over the next few days.

 

The ship had entered the Red Sea sailing towards the Suez Canal, arriving 3 days later - 6th Sept., and another day later they reached Port Said, Egypt on the 7th September.

 

Port Said is on the Mediterranean Sea

 

Suez Canal
Suez Canal

 

 

PORT SAID, EGYPT (1930s)

This map shows the town of Port Said, Egypt with close-up detail insert.
This map shows the town of Port Said, Egypt with close-up detail insert.

 

continued... 

 

Arrived in Port Said : 7th September - 3 am. Departed later am.

 

Aden to Port Said is between 1613 miles / 2,596 kms. It took 3 days to complete.

 

The ship reached Port Said, Egypt on the 7th September at 3amPort Said is on the Mediterranean SeaBaba and his men all disembarked and spent an hour walking nearby.

 

The ship continued its voyage to Europe that same morning. Baba had expressed to his disciples Gandhi is a good man, but it will be better if he sees me. It would be to his great benefit. I love him dearly and I would like to meet him for his own good."

 

The following day 8th September at 9:00 am, Gandhi came to Meher Baba's cabin with his secretary Mahadev Desai. After the introductions, Gandhi looked at Baba and said, "I have read much about you and wanted to see you one day when God willed it; but I never expected it to be so soon."

 

Baba expressed how happy he was to meet him and dictated from his alphabet board: "Do you have the time to stay?"

"Yes, I have come to sit and listen," Gandhi replied.

 

They both had a long conversation about Perfect Master Upasni Maharaj, etc, and then they talked about the book Baba had written. Gandhi expressed he wanted to read it. Baba had it in a trunk in his cabin. The trunk had a lock on it, but the key was left behind in Bombay. Gandhi said he will get it open. Baba then gave him the trunk so that Gandhi could later open it and read the book.

 

 

Before leaving at 10:30 that night, Gandhi extended a cordial invitation to Baba to visit his place of residence in London, and Baba agreed to pay a visit while he was in London.

 

 

 

Port Said, early 20th Century.
Port Said, early 20th Century.

 

 

MAP ROUTE OF SS. RAJPUTANA - 1931

 

PORT SAID TO MARSEILLES VIA THE STRAITS OF MESSINA & BONIFACIO

 

1931 : Map shows the SS Rajputana took from Port Said, Egypt to Marseilles, France via the Straits of Messina. Then by train to Paris & London. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Map shows the SS Rajputana took from Port Said, Egypt to Marseilles, France via the Straits of Messina. Then by train to Paris & London. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.

 

 

STRAIT OF MESSINA, ITALY - Afternoon 9th Sept.

 

continued... 

 

In the afternoon, while the ship was passing Messina, many passengers gathered on the upper deck, including Gandhi and the men of his party, and Baba, with Aga Ali, Chanji and Rustom. The Indian politician Shaukat Ali Khan, who had boarded the ship at Aden, saluted Baba reverently and later spoke with him for half an hour.

 

Gandhi came to Baba's cabin at nine that night with the box containing Baba's book, which he had opened with the help of the ship's crew. Baba gave him certain chapters of the "Creation Series" for him to read. The two had long conversations on a range of topics.

They concluded at 10:00 pm.

 

STRAIT OF MESSINA, ITALY
STRAIT OF MESSINA, ITALY

 

Depart by ship : 7th Sept. Mid-morning.  Arrived : 11th Sept. Early AM. 

 

Port Said, Egypt to Marseilles, France is between 1,852 miles / 2,980 kms.

It took 3 days to complete.

 

 

STRAIT OF BONAFACIO - 10th Sept. 2:15pm

 

continued... 

 

Gandhi again came to Baba's cabin on the 10th September and had long conversations.

In one of their talks, Baba remarked, "I can write all this much better in Persian than in English, because Persian contains the equivalent Sufi terms, and I also write much better in that language. In English, these things cannot be as well explained as they can be in Persian or Gujarati."

 

1931 : Map shows the ship route through the Strait of Bonifacio before reaching Marseilles, France. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Map shows the ship route through the Strait of Bonifacio before reaching Marseilles, France. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
STRAIT OF BONAFACIO
STRAIT OF BONAFACIO

 

 

 MARSEILLES, FRANCE (1930s) Arrived 11th Sept. early am.

 

1930s :Port of Marseilles, France.
1930s :Port of Marseilles, France.
1930s Map of Marseilles, France.
1930s Map of Marseilles, France.

continued... 

 

The SS Rajputana landed in Marseilles, southern France on the 11th September in the early hours of Friday. 

 

Meher Baba had soon stepped onto European soil. Two men - Meredith Starr and Herbert Davy (Kitty's brother) were there to meet them. Baba was wearing a white sadhra and a brown imitation chinchilla coat, also a long pink scarf wrapped around his neck and head.

 

Meredith had first made contact with Baba when he visited in India in 1928. He was the Baba's link in the West. Baba and his men were taken to the nearby Hotel Geneva to refresh themselves. Meredith had already had booked for them. Herbert who was a medical student, had taken of all the other bookings and special vegetarian meals.

 

The hotel is now called New Hotel Le Quai – Vieux Port, 3 bis rue Reine-Élisabeth, 13001 Marseille.

 

Later at 1:30 pm, with Baba dressed in Western attire, they all departed by train for Paris at Gare du Lyon railway station. 

 

Hotel Geneva, Marseilles, France - 1930s.
Hotel Geneva, Marseilles, France - 1930s.
Nov. 2025. Photo courtesy of Michele Corley.
Nov. 2025. Photo courtesy of Michele Corley.

 

Depart by train : 11th Sept. 1:30 pm.  Arrived Paris : 12th Sept. 5:30 am.

 

Marseilles to Gare de Lyon R.S., Paris, France is between 410 miles / 660 kms. It took 16 hours to complete.

 

Marseille-Saint-Charles (Marseille) Railway Station.
Marseille-Saint-Charles (Marseille) Railway Station.

 

 

 

RAIL ROUTE : MARSEILLES - PARIS - BOULOGNE

Map shows the French train route from Marseilles to Paris, that Meher Baba had taken, then the train to Boulogne, followed by the ferry to Folkestone. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
Map shows the French train route from Marseilles to Paris, that Meher Baba had taken, then the train to Boulogne, followed by the ferry to Folkestone. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.

 

RAIL ROUTE DETAIL MAPS : MARSEILLES - LYON - PARIS

         MEREDITH STARR                                  HERBERT DAVY                           ENID CORFE

 

Depart by train : 12th Sept. 6 am.  Arrived : 4 pm.

 

Gare d'Orsay R.S., Paris to Boulogne, France is between 137 miles / 220 kms. It took 10 hours to complete.

 

 

Paris Gare de Lyon Railway Station. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Paris Gare de Lyon Railway Station. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

 

 

RAIL ROUTE : PARIS - BOULOGNE & FERRY

Close up map showing the train route that Meher Baba took from Paris to Boulogne, then ferry to Folkestone. Map graphics by A. Zois.
Close up map showing the train route that Meher Baba took from Paris to Boulogne, then ferry to Folkestone. Map graphics by A. Zois.

 

 

BOULOGNE, FRANCE

 

Departed by ferry : 12th Sept. about 5 pmArrived : 7 pm.

 

Boulogne, France to Folkestone, England is between 59 miles / 95 kms.

It took 2 hours to complete.

 

continued... 

 

An English lady Enid Corfe (32), met them when they arrived. They then took the train for the coastal town of Boulogne in order to take the ferry Biarritz, across the English Channel to the English port of Folkestone. From here they boarded the train to Victoria Station in London, arriving that cold, wet afternoon at 4:15 pm.

 

 

Ferry BIARRITZ
Ferry BIARRITZ

 

 

FOLKESTONE, ENGLAND

Map shows the rail route from Folkestone to London.
Map shows the rail route from Folkestone to London.

 

Departed by train : 12th Sept. 7:30 pm.   Arrived : 11 pm.

 

Folkestone to London, England is 64 miles / 103 kms. It took 3-4 hours to complete.

 

continued... 

 

Mahatma Gandhi had also taken the same ferry to Folkestone, from where he was escorted by car for security reasons by the police special branch to his residency at Kingsley Hall Community Centre, Powis Road, East End, London for his safety by car.

 

Baba visited him there on October 2nd 1931, fulfilling an invitation from Gandhi whilst at sea.

No photos taken of the two together have ever surfaced.

 

Large crowds had amassed at Victoria Station for Gandhi, only to be disappointed, but a few people had come to greet Meher Baba, and he was happy to see and shake their hands.

Kitty Davy and Dick and Audrey Ince were also there to greet Baba. Herbert had made arrangements for Baba to stay at his parent's home at 32 Russell Road Kensington in London. The group took taxis from the station to Kensington. Enid stayed to arrange the baggage to be sent to East Challacombe, Meredith Starr's country home in Devonshire, a retreat which Baba visited shortly thereafter.

 

 

 VICTORIA  STATION

1930s : VICTORIA STATION, LONDON. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s : VICTORIA STATION, LONDON. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
PAUL  ROBESON. Image coloured by A. Zois
PAUL ROBESON. Image coloured by A. Zois

 

 continued... 

 

An indirect route was taken to Kensington that went past the Foreign Office, Dowling St, Buckingham Palace and Parliament. 

 

When they arrived Mary 'Margaret' Craske (39)- a respected dance teacher and a former 

member of the Diaghilev Ballet of Russia and a prominent dancer opened the door for Baba and the other guests. Margaret had gone to Meredith's retreat  in June earlier that year and had seen Baba's picture on the wall of the house and now there she was 5 months later meeting the Master.

 

After Baba and the guests were situated, Baba asked Margaret to visit his room. She sat near him for some time. Baba asked her to come also to Devonshire. She said that she had a dance school to run, but Baba insisted. He told her that she was "of his circle".

 

Baba stayed in Kitty's bedroom. He changed out of his English attire into his sadra and then had lunch of rice, vegetables and fruit with the others. After lunch, Baba asked both Kitty and Margaret to come to his room where he gave them a grape each and explained to them what prasad was (gift from the Master) and then told Margaret "It was your love that brought me here [to England]."

 

On the 1st day, many came to meet Meher Baba, including Maggie Barton, Kitty and Herbert's older sister Martha May Cluse, Horace Fleming (an artist), and a Japanese jujitsu teacher named Gunji Koizumi (who helped prepare vegetarian meals).

 

Later Baba, wanted some privacy to talk to some of the people. Paul Robeson's records were played. The next day, they were to leave for Combe Martin, the town on the coast near East Challacombe.

 

Baba made some remarks during that night : "War is inevitable, and it will break out after seven months." 

 

To Herbert he said "You are to follow me and work in China under my direct orders."

 

To Meredith he said "You have work to do in Combe Martin. Spiritual centers are to be opened, especially in America, Turkey, Russia, Persia and England, and the Devonshire Retreat will be such a center."

 

 

       KITTY DAVY                              MARGARET CRASKE                     GUNJI KOIZUMI

DAVY'S HOME  - 32 Russell Road, Kensington, London

Davy' Home, Kensington
Davy' Home, Kensington
D-Devy's home    V-Victoria Railway Station  B-Buckingham Palace  P-Parliament  DS-Dowing St.
D-Devy's home V-Victoria Railway Station B-Buckingham Palace P-Parliament DS-Dowing St.
1931 : Meher Baba in England. Image rendition by Anthony Zois. BP
1931 : Meher Baba in England. Image rendition by Anthony Zois. BP

 

 

ROAD ROUTE : LONDON - EAST CHALLACOMBE

The map of South England shows the road route taken by Meher Baba from London to East Challacombe, Devon. Map graphics by A. Zois.
The map of South England shows the road route taken by Meher Baba from London to East Challacombe, Devon. Map graphics by A. Zois.

 

Departed by car : 13th Sept. 7 am.   Arrived : 5 pm.

 

London, England to East Challacombe, Devon is 225 miles / 355 kms.

It took 10 hours to complete.

 

continued... 

 

Meher Baba and his group left at 7:00 am, Sunday 13th September, in a rented a large taxi-car and travelled westwards to Devonshire. The road route taken was the Great West Road which went from Slough to South Molton, as shown in the above map. 7 men including Baba and the driver were crammed into the taxi, along with their luggage and other items.

 

In the rear seat, Baba covered himself with a turban and a rug carpet. Whilst he was performing his spiritual work, his hands were constantly moving. When the taxi arrived in Bath, Meredith took Baba to visit Dr. Whitby for a few moments, then they visited Glastonbury. After a journey of 10 hours the reached Combe Martin on the coast at 5:00 pm. They then went to the 60 acre retreat property of East Challacombe (now North Challacombe), several miles away, where a group of Westerners were awaiting the Master's arrival.

 

Those waiting were - Margaret Starr, wife of Meredith, her sister Josephine Esther Ross and her brother Charles Kenneth Ross, Milo Shattuck (25), Richard Mayer, Tom Sharley, Mrs. Helmer, Charles Purdom (48), Enid Corfe and Dorothy Cousins, all of whom had all contributed money to finance Baba's trip to England.

 

Also waiting were Thomas Augustus Watson (77) & his wife Elizabeth (75) from Boston USA. Watson had worked with Alexander Graham Bell to invent the telephone and was now retired. 

 

Baba was tired from the long car ride and only glanced at the gathered people but he did greet a teary Margaret Starr who had accompanied Meredith earlier in 1928 with Josephine Ester to India. Baba placed his hand on Watson's head as he entered the house, which caused Watson to weep for some while. 

 

 

  MARGARET STARR         JOSEPHINE ROSS               CHARLES ROSS               TOM SHARPLEY

MILO SHATTUCK        CHARLES PURDOM            ENID CORFE              THOMAS WATSON   

 

 

continued... 

 

Meredith Starr insisted that all participants meditate 4 hours daily, even though the Master was in their presence. He insisted on controlling all matters. For Baba to give his Indian men instructions, they gathered in the nearby barn early in the mornings. Chanji found Meredith's behaviour very insulting to their Master.

 

Baba held many private meetings in his room with the inhabitants of the retreat.

A full account of these matters can be sourced in both the Lord Meher books and on-line.

 

On the 14thSeptember, Baba spoke with Watson, then later went for a walk along the cliffs by the seashore, others in this walk collected shoreline souvenirs. Katherine Anna "Kim" Tolhurst came to the retreat encouraged by her judo instructor Koizumi. After meeting Baba she was very drawn to him.

 

The following day, ( 15th ) Kitty and her niece Zilla Cluse arrived at the retreat at 9:00 pm.

 

On the 16th September, early in the morning Baba gave Herbert instructions regarding future work that Baba wanted him to do. Herbert accepted a job offer in China from the League of Nations as a Professor of English Literature at Nanking University, (now Nanjing) in China. Baba wanted him to go immediately, telling him to make friends with both the English and  the Chinese people who were there and not to take opium. Baba also instructed Herbert to hold fortnightly meetings, to give talks about Meher Baba.

 

Baba informed Herbert that he would pay him a visit in China. Baba did see him in China on June 1932. Herbert left the next day 17th September with the Watson's by train back to London. 

 

Baba gave him his scarf and an orange, which Herbert ate on the train.

 

Herbert Davy departed England within days, taking up the teaching position at Nanking University in China. He travelled on the SS HAKONE MARU, arriving in Shanghai in late September - early October 1931.

 

Click here CHINA to visit those web pages.

 

 

          KIM TOLHURST                                     ZILLA CLUSE                      DOROTHY COUSINS

1931 : Photo of Meher Baba in a newspaper. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Photo of Meher Baba in a newspaper. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

 

continued... 

 

On the 18th September, Baba took the group hiking to see a nearby cave. Baba was photographed holding a lamb. Even though there was sunshine, it was still cold and all wore woollen clothing.

 

The next day (19th), Mabel Ryan (41), a dancer from South Africa, was Margaret Craske's business partner in the dance and ballet school in London. That day Baba again explored the cliffs and shoreline. Later, Margaret and Mabel gave a dance performance and the others sang songs later. Baba played cricket with them at times.

 

After lunch on the 20th September, Kitty and Zilla departed for London and Enid followed the next day (21st). In that afternoon, Baba gave some of the ladies a private talk about creation.

The next day, a telegram from Vishnu Deorukhkar in India arrived, informing Baba that Perfect Master Babajan had passed away. Baba then instructed Ghani Munsiff by telegram to donate Rs.4,000 (rupees) towards building a marble tomb for Babajan in Poona. 

 

Baba indicated that by Babajan dropping her body, certain difficulties had arisen and that his planned trip to Persia is postponed and instead he would travel to the U.S.A. 

 

 

18th September, 1931. Meher Baba holding a lamb. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
18th September, 1931. Meher Baba holding a lamb. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Mid-September 1931 - East Challacombe farm. Back row (L-R); Maggie Barton, Baba, Margaret Starr. Front (L-R); Kim Tolhurst, Margaret CRaske, Meredith Starr. Back, partially seen is Kenneth Ross. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Mid-September 1931 - East Challacombe farm. Back row (L-R); Maggie Barton, Baba, Margaret Starr. Front (L-R); Kim Tolhurst, Margaret CRaske, Meredith Starr. Back, partially seen is Kenneth Ross. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Sunday, 13 September 1931. E. Challacombe. (L-R) Herbert, Baba, Zilla Cluse & Agha Ali. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Sunday, 13 September 1931. E. Challacombe. (L-R) Herbert, Baba, Zilla Cluse & Agha Ali. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Meher Baba with the Starrs' children at East Challacombe, Devon, England.
1931 : Meher Baba with the Starrs' children at East Challacombe, Devon, England.

 

Departed by car : 24th Sept. at 9 am, Arrived 10 am at Illfracombe, then departed by train at 11am to London. Arrived : 4 pm.

 

East Challacombe, to Illfracombe, Devon to London by train is between 213 miles / 343 kms. It took 5 hours to complete.

 

      MABEL RYAN                      BABAJAN                          VISHNU                      GHANI

 

 

 

ROAD DETAIL ROUTE : LONDON - EAST CHALLACOMBE

The map of South-West England shows the road route taken by Meher Baba to East Challacombe, Devon. Map graphics by A. Zois.
The map of South-West England shows the road route taken by Meher Baba to East Challacombe, Devon. Map graphics by A. Zois.

 

continued... 

 

After 10 days, on the 24th September, Baba decided to leave Combe Martin , and travelled by train back to London. ( see the maps below). Departing along with Baba were Chanji, Rustom, Agha Ali, Tom, Margaret, Kim and Audrey Ince5 hours later they were in London and back at the Davy's home to stay. Kitty's parents John & Helena both had many intimate contact with Baba.

John W. Davy ran a family printing business.

 

Baba's normal routine while in London was, to get up at 6:00 am, have breakfast at 7:30 am, then glance at the newspaper and be ready to receive visitors by 9:00 am.

Meher Baba stayed at the same address on his next visit to London - 7th April 1932

 

Map shows the road route from Each Challacombe farm to the train at Ilfracombe, along the local line to connect with the LSWR line at Barnstaple to go back to London. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
Map shows the road route from Each Challacombe farm to the train at Ilfracombe, along the local line to connect with the LSWR line at Barnstaple to go back to London. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Routes taken to return to London by car & train. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Routes taken to return to London by car & train. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.

 

continued... 

 

The next day, 25th September, Kitty took Baba sightseeing around London to the following places: Zoo at Regent's Park, Victoria and Albert Museum, Westminster Abbey and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Baba remarked : "Those buried here are fortunate that I have been here."

Baba made similar remarks at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, "How fortunate they were". 

 

 

 

LONDON ZOO - REGENT'S PARK

WESTMINSTER CATHEDRAL & The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

 

 

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

 continued... 

 

He enjoyed travelling all over London on the Underground Tube, going to Liverpool Street, Oxford Circus, Shepherd's Bush and Piccadilly.

 

 

LONDON  UNDERGROUND

1937 map. Red markers show some of the places Baba travelled to. Map graphics by A. Zois.
1937 map. Red markers show some of the places Baba travelled to. Map graphics by A. Zois.
Quentin Tod. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Quentin Tod. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

continued... 

 

Also on the 25th September while staying at the Davy's house in Kensington, Kim Tolhurst brought her husband Desmond and her 2 daughters, Phoebe Ann and Susan Jane. Desmond had a conversation with Baba on various topics. Later that afternoon, Quentin Tod (46) a British actor, dancer and choreographer, who worked in both London and New York also came to visit Baba. He was also friend of both Margaret & Mabel. When Margaret returned from the retreat in Devon-shire, she told Quentin about Baba and he was keen to meet him. Subsequently, Milo Shattuck took Quentin to the Davy's home to meet Baba.

 

Christmas Humphries who was president of the Buddhist Society of London came with some others to visit Baba at the house. They had a lengthy conversation on various topics. Maud McCarthy Foulds also visited Baba. The editor of The Occult Review Henry J. Strutton also came to see Baba.

 

Click on the underlined names to see a fully account of their meetings with Meher Baba.

 

           

 DESMOND TOLHURST             CHRISTMAS HUMPHRIES           MAUD McCARTHY FOULDS

 

continued... 

 

In the evening of 25th September in London, Baba attended a concert of the BBC Symphony Orchestra at Queen's Hall, but he did not enjoy the classical music. At intermission, Baba was taken backstage to meet the conductor Sir Henry J. Wood, 62, who had expressed a wish to meet him. Kitty knew Sir Henry, as she taught piano to his two daughters.

 

*Queen's Hall was destroyed in 1941 during the Blitz on London during WW2.

 

 

SIR HENRY WOODS                                 QUEENS HALL LONDON

 

continued... 

 

On Saturday evening 26th September, accompanied by Desmond and Kim, Margaret Craske, Meredith and Kitty, Baba took Rustom, Chanji and Aga Ali to see the musical comedy White Horse Inn at the London Coliseum.

 

The images of the band The Who is shown because the band's songwriter/ guitarist

Pete Townsend is a Meher Baba follower. Their performance at this venue was highly acclaimed over 35 years later.

 

LONDON  COLISEUM

 

 continued... 

 

When Cordelia 'Delia' DeLeon, 30, an actress who also co-owned the Q Theatre with her brother Jack was introduced to Baba, she was immediately drawn to him, and would remain a close one to him, as one of His Western Mandali.

 

At Delia's first private interview, Baba told her, "It is not chance that brought you here."

 

 

     DELIA DE LEON                           JACK DE LEON                    Q THEATRE, LONDON

 

continued... 

 

On Monday morning 28th September, Meher Baba went to the Persian Embassy in regards to his travels to Istanbul and the USA. The necessary documents became available shortly afterwards. In the early afternoon, Baba went with Meredith and Margaret Starr to visit Meredith's mother.

 

 

PERSIAN (IRAN) EMBASSY  - 16 Prince's Gate, South Kensington, London

 

 continued... 28th September

 

Later, Baba visited Margaret Craske's Ballet School : Craske-Ryan Studio at 26 West Street, West End, off Cambridge Circus. The dance students were amazed by their visitor.

 

 

CRASKE - RYAN DANCE STUDIO LONDON

Margaret Craske. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
Margaret Craske. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

 FILM " DADDY LONG LEGS" 1931

 

continued... 28th September

 

That night Baba and his group went to see the film "Daddy Long Legs". Baba left before the film finished.

 

The following day, 29th September, many Londoners came to the Davy's house to see Meher Baba, including an editor - Mr. Vivian, with whom he had a lengthy conversation.

 

Kitty Davy's eldest sister May Cluse (42),  confronted Baba and challenged his divinity declaring the Christ was the only one. Baba calmly said : "To explain it all to you will take time, but I will convince you that I have gained the state of Christhood and that I am the Christ."

May scoffed at him, but did listen to his attempt to explain.

 

On the 30th September, Baba went to the photographic studio of Kinye Imai at 83 Ebury Street, London. 6 portrait photos were taken.

 

 

The portraits were originally in B/W. These images were rendered by Anthony Zois.

 

continued... 

 

On the 1st October, Baba and the group went to London Zoo.This was the second visit to the Zoo.

 

That night, Baba and the group went to the Piccadilly Theatre to see the play "Folly to be Wise"

 

 

PICCADILLY THEATRE & the play "FOLLY TO BE WISE"

 

 

continued... 

 

 The following day, 2nd October, Baba travelled with Chanji, Agha Ali and Meredith by taxi to the U.S. Embassy to obtain their visas to the country early next month. Baba signed his name as a "X" and listed his occupation was listed as "Spiritual Teacher," Chanji's as "Secretary" and Ali as "servant."

 

Baba then returned to Margaret & Mabel's dance studio to watch ballet class. While there, he had tea. Baba remarked to Margaret "Your dancing is mine".

 

Meher Baba then went to visit a home for the needy, as he had promised Kitty's mother Helena, days earlier. Baba communicated in silence to the residence, many were blind, deaf or dumb. Helena was very happy with Baba's presence. 

When Baba returned to the Davy's home he told Kitty ; "Of all the things I have done in the West, I have enjoyed my visit to the home for the needy the most."

 

That evening Baba visited Mahatma Gandhi at his residence at Kingsley Hall Community Center, at Bromley-By-Bow, East End of London. He was keeping a promise he made to him whilst travelling to Europe. Gandhi had telephoned in the previous days to arrange for Baba to meet him. 

 

Baba arrived at 8:15 pm along with Chanji and Rustom. There were many people gathered around Gandhi Baba was received with great reverence by Gandhi, who introduced him to all present. They had a long conversation in the hall in the presence of everyone. It was also Gandhi's  62nd birthday.

 

Baba started by saying - "I have been in a retreat in Devonshire for twelve days. Tomorrow, I am proceeding to Turkey."

 

 Gandhi asked ; "Why"

 

"For spiritual reasons," Baba replied. "The atmosphere in Turkey is very bad and the people are leaning more and more toward materialism. It is necessary for me to go there to change this."

 

There was a lengthy conversation between them that night. A full account of this is in the web page for Gandhi.  Click on his name to visit. MAHATMA GANDHI

 

There are no photos of Meher Baba at Kingsley Hall or with Mahatma Gandhi.

 

 

Kingsley Hall Community Center

Central London : Red markers show places Meher Baba visited. See table below.
Central London : Red markers show places Meher Baba visited. See table below.

 

1.   DAVY'S HOME - 32 Russell Road, Kensington

2.   CRASKE - RYAN DANCE SCHOOL 26 West Street, West End

3.   Q THEATRE - Kew Green ( see L/H side arrow )

4.   KINYE STUDIO - 83 Ebury Street, London

5.   KINGSLEY HALL - Powis Road, East End ( see R/H side arrow )

6.   PERSIAN EMBASSY - 16 Princes Gate, London

7.   U.S. EMBASSY - 1 Grosvenor Square, Mayfair, London

8.   PICCADILLY THEATRE - Sherwood St & Denman St, London

9.   QUEENS HALL - Langham Place, London, ( destroyed )

10. COLISEUM - St. Martin's Lane, London

11. BRITISH MUSEUM

12. VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

13. VICTORIA STREET RAILWAY STATION

14. WESTMINSTER ABBEY

15. BUCKINGHAM PALACE

16. DOWNING STREET

17. FOREIGN OFFICES

18. PARLIAMENT

19. OXFORD CIRCUS R.S. (RAILWAY STATION)

20. PICCADILLY R.S.

21. SHEPHERD'S BUSH R.S.

22. LIVERPOOL STREET R.S.

23. ROYAL ZOO - REGENT'S PARK

 

continued... 

 

Baba returned to the Davy's home, where upon arrival, the 2 maids of the house, Elsie and Edna Brain both embraced Baba and were overjoyed by his presence. Kitty's sister May Cluse was now overcome by Baba's presence, weeping, kissing him and placing her forehead on his feet, a stark contrast from several days prior.

 

That night, Kitty, Delia, Margaret, Kim, Minta, Quentin and Purdom stayed with Baba. They played Paul Robeson records, and then Baba dismissed the group.

 

Baba left at 9:30am on the 3rd October, from Victoria Street Railway Station, for Dover on the Golden Arrow Train. He was accompanied by Agha Ali, Chanji, Rustom and Meredith. Margaret Starr and Delia de Leon accompanied the group only as far as Dover. Baba and his group then took the COTE D'AZUR ferry to Calais, France.

 

 

 

RAIL ROUTE : LONDON - DOVER & FERRY

 

Map shows the train route taken by Meher Baba after his 1st stay in London travelling to Dover, then the ferry route to Calais. Map graphics by A. Zois.
Map shows the train route taken by Meher Baba after his 1st stay in London travelling to Dover, then the ferry route to Calais. Map graphics by A. Zois.

 

Departed : 3rd Oct. 9:30 am.  Arrived : after 12 Noon.

 

London by train to Dover, England is 68 miles / 109 kms.

It took 3.5 hours to complete.

 

 Ferry COTE D'AZUR
Ferry COTE D'AZUR

 

Departed : 3rd Oct. after noon. Arrived : about 2 pm.

 

Dover, England  ferry to Calais, France is 20 miles / 32 kms.

It took overall 2 hours to complete.

 

 

continued... 

 

When the group arrived in Calais, they boarded the Simplon Orient Express train for Istanbul, via Paris, Lausanne, and Milan. When they arrived the next day in Milan, Enid Corfe greeted them at the station with fruit, biscuits, cheese and cakes before they proceeded onto Venice and the Balkan countries.

 

 

RAIL ROUTE : FERRY - CALAIS - PARIS

 

Departed : 3rd Oct. 2:30 pm.  Arrived : after 6:00 pm. 

 

Calais by train to Gare du Nord R.S.Paris, France is 147 miles / 235kms.

It took 3 - 5 hours to complete.

 

Close up map showing the ferry & train routes that Meher Baba took from Dover to Calais then train to Paris.  Map graphics by A. Zois.
Close up map showing the ferry & train routes that Meher Baba took from Dover to Calais then train to Paris. Map graphics by A. Zois.

 

RAIL ROUTE : PARIS - LAUSANNE - MILAN

 

Departed : 3rd Oct. early evening.  Arrived : after midnight - 4th Oct.

 

Gare de Lyon R.S., Paris, France to Lausanne, Switzerland by train is 235 miles / 414 kms.

It took 6 - 7 hours to complete.

 

1931 : Map shows the rail route between Paris - Lausanne - Milan. The following map will show the rest of the route to Istanbul. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Map shows the rail route between Paris - Lausanne - Milan. The following map will show the rest of the route to Istanbul. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.

 

Departed : 4th Oct. after midnight. Arrived : about 4 - 5:00 am.

 

Lausanne, Switzerland to Milan, Italy by train is 143 miles / 230 kms.

It took 3 hours, 40 mins. to complete.

 

1930s : Milan's Central Railway Station. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s : Milan's Central Railway Station. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

 

Departed : 4th Oct. 6:00 am.  Arrived : 6th Oct. noon.

 

Milan, Italy to Istanbul, Turkey by train is 1,107 miles / 1,776 kms.

It took 54 hours to complete.

 

continued... 

 

Baba arrived in Istanbul on the 6th October at noon. They then took taxis to the Hotel Continental  where they stayed. The day of their arrival was a national holiday, so there were military parades taking place in the city. Baba decided not to wear a hat so he showed his hair to the public which gained attention.

 

That night they all went to a play, but it was in French. During the daytime, a search had began to find a "Turkish good boy", which Baba said he needed for his work, and one was found after 3 days.

 

Two days later ; 10th October, the boy brought another boy to Baba, and they all went with the men to see an Old Greek Orthodox cathedral -  Hagia Sofia, which had turned into the mosque.

 

At the mosque, an incident took place when a guide became angry at one of the boys showing the group around and had him arrested. Baba and the group all went to the police station to explain that the boy was merely their servant.

 

The police freed the boy and the group didn't return to the Hagia Sofia but went instead to the Topkapi Palace. Later their taxi driver suggested they check out an old Christian churchChora Monastery which was far away. It was in a dilapidated condition but an image of Christ and his 12 Apostles were still intact. Elsewhere, there was a painting of Mother Mary holding baby Jesus

 

From there, Baba asked the taxi driver to take him into the slums of Istanbul. Baba directed the others to go back to the hotel. For the second time in his advent Meher Baba was by himself. It's not known exactly what Baba did apart from walking through the streets. He returned after many hours to the hotel.

 

1931 : Simplon Express rail route from Dijon, France to Istanbul, Turkey.
1931 : Simplon Express rail route from Dijon, France to Istanbul, Turkey.

 

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

 

1930s : Istanbul, Turkey. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s : Istanbul, Turkey. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s : Istanbul, Turkey. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.
1930s : Istanbul, Turkey. Image rendition by Anthony Zois.

Chora Church-Monastery or Kariye Mosque

 

 

 continued... 

 

On Sunday, 11th October, Baba revealed to Rustom & Chanji the real purpose for his visit to Istanbul.

I have come here on most important work and though I have met no one externally, I am doing a great deal internally. Although it was once great, at present Turkey is a most debased country. In the realm of spirituality, it is today nowhere. Militarily and materially, it has progressed. But it is home to many dishonest and undesirable people. To counter the very strong evil forces working here, a powerful spiritual force is required. And for that reason, I have come in person.

 

The next day, 12th October, Chanji went to Thomas Cook travel agents to book passage to the U.S., but not via England. Rustom booked passage for himself back to India via Alexandria, Egypt.

 

The next morning - 13th October, Rustom departed, but Baba was required to go to the Persian & Italian consulates for permission to travel to Italy. Their hotel manager was of great help in these matters.

 

Baba commented about his work and the coming war,  "The war will be short but most destructive. [?] will be wiped off. I have fixed it up. All will have to suffer, including England. But America will decide the final issue, again. There will be civil war in India."

 

Baba departed the following day by the Simplon Orient Express for Milan, Italy.

 

 

Departed: 14th Oct. 5:35 pm.  Arrived : 16th Oct. 5:30 pm.

 

Istanbul,Turkey to Milan, Italy by train is 1,107 miles / 1,776 kms.

It took 54 hours to complete.

 

 

1931 : Simplon Express rail route from Istanbul, Turkey to Milan, Italy. Then by road to Genoa, boarded ship for Nice & Naples. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
1931 : Simplon Express rail route from Istanbul, Turkey to Milan, Italy. Then by road to Genoa, boarded ship for Nice & Naples. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
Certosa di Pavia, south of Milan, Italy.
Certosa di Pavia, south of Milan, Italy.

 

BUS ROUTE : MILAN - CERTOSA di PAVIA

 

continued... 

 

Baba arrived in Milan 2 days later on the 16th October in the late afternoon. Enid failed to meet them at the station, so they went to her apartment where she apologized. She took them to the Albergo Imperiale Hotel, where Enid had made prior reservations for a stay of 9 days in rooms on the 10th floor. They later went to a vegetarian restaurant for supper.

 

The next day, 17th October, Baba and his group went to the Certosa Monastery, about an hour's drive south of Milan by bus. Baba enjoyed the monastery very much and explored the whole monastery. Baba gave a lengthy explanation about his work, especially in regards to the war conflict in China with Japan.

 

 

Departed : 17th Oct. morning. Arrived : late morning. Returned to Milan : late afternoon.

 

Milan to Certosa di Pavia by bus is 19 miles / 30 kms.

It took 45-60 minutes to complete & then return the same way.

 

 

Milan-Pavia bus road map & return to Milan. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
Milan-Pavia bus road map & return to Milan. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.

 

 

TRAIN ROUTE : MILAN - VARESE 

 

Departed : 18th Oct. early morning. Arrived : mid-morning. Returned to Milan : late afternoon.

 

Milan to Varese by train is 30 miles / 48 kms. It took 60 - 90 mins to complete & then return the same way. 

 

continued... 

 

On Sunday, 18 October 1931, Baba took the group by train on a trip to the Italian Alps. At Varese, they changed to a mountain funicular, and went up the steep gradient, enjoying the marvellous scenery. After returning to the city, that evening, they went to the Odeon Theatre where they saw a film The Divorcee.  

 

 

Varese to the monastery by funicular train at the top of the mount is 4.3 miles / 7 kms. It took 15 mins to complete & then return the same way. 

 

 

ODEON THEATRE, MILAN & MOVIE POSTER

 

 

CAR ROUTE : MILAN - COMO & THE LAKE 

 

 

Departed: 20th Oct. early morning. Arrived : late morning. Departed to Milan : a few days later.

 

Milan to Como by car is 24 miles / 39 kms. It took 2 hours to complete. 

 

continued... 

 

Meher Baba stayed and toured the lake area. It's unknown where exactly he went. He stayed a few days and then returned to Milan the same way. 

 

Map shows the road route to Como. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
Map shows the road route to Como. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.

 

 

 RAIL ROUTE : MILAN - GENOA

 

Departed : 25th Oct. 6:40 pm. Arrived : 8:45 pm.

 

Milan to Genoa, Italy by train is 98 miles / 157 kms.

It took 2 hours to complete.

 

continued... 

 

On the afternoon of the 25th October, Baba held a tea party at Enid's apartment in Pensione Agostini. Baba and his group left Milan on the 6:40 pm train for the port city of Genoa.

They arrived 2 hours later, to stay at the Milano Terminus Hotel

 

The following afternoon - 26th October, a tea party was held in Baba's honour to which some locals attended in order to be with him.  

 

On the 27th October at 10:00 am, Baba, Chanji, Ali and Meredith all boarded the SS Roma bound for New York. The conditions were cramped for the first day of the journey in cabins 400 & 421, but the next day they were moved to better cabins 272 & 274. The first port of call was Nice, France, staying briefly before continuing onto Naples Italy, arriving the next day , 28th October at 1:00 pm. The ship stayed for 3 hours, leaving at 4:00 pm. 

 

After leaving Naples, the next destination was Gibraltar, then the Azores Islands and finally onto New York, USA.

 

 

HOTEL TERMINUS & MILANO-GENOA

Map shows the rail route between Milan & Genoa. There were a couple of train tunnels near Genoa. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.
Map shows the rail route between Milan & Genoa. There were a couple of train tunnels near Genoa. Map graphics by Anthony Zois.

 

 

This concludes the 1st part of Baba's first trip to the West.

To continue reading about this trip, please click on the Part B button below or from the index on the left if the reader is using a large screen.

 

SS ROMA in Genoa port 1920s-30s
SS ROMA in Genoa port 1920s-30s